June 26, 1806
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Aug 30, 1803 Sep 30, 1806

June 26, 1806

 

This morning we collected our horses and set out after an early breakfast or at 6 A. M.    we passed by the same rout we had travelled on the 17th inst. to our deposit on the top of the snowey mountain to the N. E. of hungary Creek. [1]    here we neceessarily halted about 2 hours to arrange our baggage and prepare our loads.    we cooked and made a haisty meal of boiled venison and mush of cows.    the snow has subsided near four feet since the 17th inst.    we now measured it accurately and found from a mark which we had made on a tree when we were last here on the 17th that it was then 10 feet 10 inches which appeared to be about the common debth though it is deeper still in some places.    it is now generally about 7 feet. [2]    on our way up this mountain about the border of the snowey region we killed 2 of the small black pheasant [3] and a female of the large dommanicker or speckled pheasant, [4] the former have 16 fathers in their tail and the latter 20 while the common pheasant [5] have only 18.    the indians informed us that neither of these speceis drumed; they appear to be very silent birds for I never heared either of them make a noise in any situation. [6]    the indians haistened to be off and informed us that it was a considerable distance to the place which they wished to reach this evening where there was grass for our horses.    accordingly we set out with our guides who lead us over and along the steep sides of tremendious mountains entirely covered with snow except about the roots of the trees where the snow had sometimes melted and exposed a few square feet of the earth.    we ascended and decended severall lofty and steep hights but keeping on the dividing ridge between the Chopunnish and Kooskooske rivers we passed no stream of water. [7]    late in the evening much to the satisfaction of ourselves and the comfort of our horses we arrived at the desired spot and encamped on the steep side of a mountain convenient to a good spring.    [NB: having passed a few miles our camp of 18 Sepr 1805] [8]    here we found an abundance of fine grass for our horses. this situation was the side of an untimbered mountain with a fair southern aspect where the snows from appearance had been desolved about 10 days.    the grass was young and tender of course and had much the appearance of the greenswoard. [9]    there is a great abundance of a speceis of bear-grass [10] which grows on every part of these mountains it's growth is luxouriant and continues green all winter but the horses will not eat it.    soon after we had encamped we were overtaken by a Chopunnish man who had pursued us with a view to accompany me to the falls of the Missouri.    we were now informed that the two young men whom we met on the 21st and detained several days are going on a party of pleasure mearly to the Oote-lash-shoots or as they call them Sha-lees [11] a band of the Tush-she-pah nation who reside on Clark's river in the neighbourhood of traveller's rest.    one of our guides lost 2 of his horses, which he returned in surch of; he found them and rejoined us a little before dark.—

 

We collected our horses and Set out early and proceeded on Down hungary Creek a fiew miles and assended to the Summit of the mountain where we deposited our baggage on the 17th inst.    found every thing Safe and as we had left them.    the Snow which was 10 feet 10 inches deep on the top of the mountain, had sunk to 7 feet tho' perfectly hard and firm.    we made Some fire Cooked dinner and dined, while our horses Stood on snow 7 feet deep at least.    after dinner we packed up and proceeded on.    about the borders of the Snowey region we killed 2 Small black pheasents and a female of the large dommanicker or Speckled pheasent, the former have 16 feathers in the tail and the latter 20 while the common Pheasent have 18.    the indians informed us that neither of these Speces drumed; they appear to be very Silent birds for I never heard any of them make any noise.    the Indians hastened 〈to the〉 us off and informed us that it was a considerable distance to the place they wished to reach this evening where there was grass for our horses. accordingly we Set out with our guides who led us over and along the Steep Sides of tremendious Mountains entirely covered with Snow except about the roots of the trees where the Snow was partially melted and exposed a Small Spot of earth.    we assended and decended Several Steep lofty hights but keeping on the dividing ridge of the Chopunnish & Kooskooske river we passed no Stream of water.    late in the evening much to the Satisfaction of ourselves and the Comfort of the horses we arived at the desired Spot and Encamped on the Steep Side of a Mountain Convenient to a good Spring.    here we found an abundance of fine grass for our horses.    this Situation was the Side of an untimbered mountain with a fair Southern aspect where the Snow from appearance had been disolved about 10 days, the grass was young and tender of course and had much the appearance of the Green Swoard.    there is a great abundance of Species of bear grass which grows on every part of those Mountains, its growth is luxurient and continues green all winter but the horses will not eate it. Soon after we had encamped we were over taken by a Chopunnish man who had pursued us with a view to accompany Capt Lewis to the falls of Missouri.    we were now informed that the two young men we met on the 21st and detained Several days were going on a party of pleasure mearly to the Oat-lash-shoots or as they call them Sha-lees a band of the Tush-she-pâh Nation who reside on Clarks river in the neighbourhood of the Mouth of Travelers rest.    one of our Guides lost 2 of his horses, he returned in Serch of them he found them & rejoined us at Dark.    all of the Indians with us have two & 3 horses each. I was taken yesterday with a violent pain in my head which has tormented me ever Since, most violently

 

Thursday 26th June 1806.    we Set out as usal and proceed. on to the top of mountains covred with Snow where we had left our baggage, [12] and packed up and proceed. on    we find the Snow has Settled a little more than 2 feet Since we left this the other day.    proceeded on thro. Snow deep.    in the evening we Came to the Side of a mountain where the Snow is melted away and a little young grass &C. So we Camped. [13]    Soon after we Camped another Indn. Came up who is going over the mountn. with us.

 

Thursday 26th.    We had a foggy morning; proceeded on early; and found the banks of snow much decreased: at noon we arrived at the place where we had left our baggage and stores. The snow here had sunk twenty inches. We took some dinner, but there was nothing for our horses to eat. We measured the depth of the snow here and found it ten feet ten inches. We proceeded over some very steep tops of the mountains and deep snow; but the snow was not so deep in the drafts between them; and fortunately, we got in the evening to the side of a hill where the snow was gone; and there was very good grass for our horses. So we encamped there all night. Some heavy showers of rain had fallen in the afternoon.

1. The cache on Willow Ridge, in Idaho County, Idaho; see June 17, 1806. (back)
2. Space, 36, judges the spring of 1806 to have been unusually late, since the snow is usually gone in the area by late June, except in isolated drifts and shaded spots. (back)
3. Probably the blue grouse, Dendragapus obscurus [AOU, 297]; see August 1, 1805, and March 3, 1806. (back)
4. Spruce grouse, Dendragapus canadensis [AOU, 298]; see March 3, 1806. (back)
5. Presumably the ruffed grouse, Bonasa umbellus [AOU, 300], "common" because Lewis was familiar with it in the East. A red vertical line runs through this passage about the birds, perhaps Biddle's doing. (back)
6. Space, 36, confirms that these birds do not drum, though they make other noises during the mating season or in calling their young. (back)
7. The Lolo Trail runs along the ridge or divide between the North Fork of the Clearwater (Chopunnish) and the Lochsa (Kooskooske), primarily in Idaho County. Atlas maps 69, 70. (back)
8. This camp was on Bald Mountain, in Idaho County. As Biddle notes, it was northeast of the camp of September 18, 1805, marked "Party Camped 18th" on Atlas map 70. Space, 36; Peebles (LT), map; Peebles (RLC), 26. (back)
9. Greensward usually refers to a lush, green meadow rather than to a specific species. The grasses would be those noted at June 19, 1806. A red vertical line runs through most of the remainder of the entry, again probably Biddle's work. (back)
10. Beargrass, Xerophyllum tenax (Pursh) Nutt., is indeed abundant here. When he says he sees "a speceis of bear-grass" he implies that he knows the eastern species, X. asphodeloides (L.) Nutt., and that this plant is different. He is correct. However, the eastern species is called turkey-beard, so Lewis's use of the name beargrass is curious. The wiry leaves are not edible, as he surmised, but as he noted on the type specimen label, they were used "by the natives to make baskets and other ornaments" (see also January 17, 1806). Hitchcock et al., 1:812; Cutright (LCPN), 422. (back)
11. Salish (Flatheads). The name "Tush-she-pah" apparently represents the Shoshone term tatasiba, "the people with shaved heads," meaning the Flatheads (see September 4, 1805). (back)
12. The cache on Willow Ridge, Idaho County, Idaho. (back)